Incorporating flexibility, elasticity
Most of us have all witnessed really good surfers doing their thing, weather it’s the local ripper, or the Pro on DVD. If you’re like me, you’re often thinking, how did they get their body in that position, how did they get their board that far above the lip, or even just how did they land that? Seriously, how did they get that good?!
Well, there’s a number of different factors to consider. Firstly, it’s likely they have surfed since they were 3 or 4 years of age, and have experienced crucial developmental years of childhood riding waves and getting to understand the ocean. They also probably had a group of hungry mates pushing them to be better in every surf, day after day!
Another factor, which is what I will look at today, is the surfers body, and it’s ability to move well on wave. A body that allows radical changes and adjustments moment to moment. A body that can expand, contract and compress in an elastic way whilst also retaining a sense of style and effortlessness.
Think about the state of your body right now. Chances are you have some pain/discomfort somewhere in your body that may or may not be related to surfing. This affliction will be seriously affecting your surfing and your quality of life and you may not even realise it. It doesn’t have to be that way.
A body that is free, open, and flexible offers up a lot of choice when surfing waves. It opens up so many possibilities. If you think of a rubber band that can be stretched to its limit and then contracts explosively, this is a nice way of looking at powerful dynamic surfing. We could call this elasticity. A body that is elastic is a body that has a liveliness to it, a spark that is really obvious. Think Mick Fanning.
So, what if you’re not flexible and elastic? What if your body is bound up, tight, stiff, or even just aged…what do you do?….well you’ve gotta start somewhere!
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